I, too, visited some of my ancestral towns in eastern Galicia, including Zbaraz, in late fall, 2006. By then, the dark years of the Holocaust had come and gone like a giant tsunami, its colossal waves bringing death to millions, wiping out everything, and then receding as if it never happened.
The Jewish cemetery was still shabby and untended, although I have heard that since then, it's been cleaned up, which is good. I commend the efforts of those today who hope to meet with current residents, but I could not look at any old person without thinking... did he/she play a part, or know someone who did? I have also read that the Soviets relocated many people to Zbaraz after the war, so their memories don't go all the way back.
I was driven, in part, by an online image I had seen of a 10-feet tall cenotaph erected in 1947 "in memory of the terrible destruction which was wrought by the German and Ukraine mass-murdered, in our town of Zbaraz." I assumed that the cenotaph was in Zbaraz, because carved near the top were the words, "Here Lies Soap." Eventually, I found the cenotaph in Beth David Cemetery, in Elmont NY, after I returned to the US. Even so, my visit to Zbaraz was powerful, and sad.
Susan J. Gordon
New York sjgwed@... BIALAZURKER, LEMPERT, SCHOENHAUT, GEIST