Re: Trip to Lvov (Lviv) Ukraine on April 2020 #galicia

Sherri Venezia

Hi Daniel:

As a fellow Galitzianer, wanted to share my experience. I went on a
genealogical journey to Lviv and nearby villages my family came >from
early in 20th C. My trip was in 2012.

Flying into Lviv right after the world soccer event, we had the new airport
and a quick entry through passport control. Recommended by my guide
I made prior reservations at the Reikartz Medievale, a modern European
boutique hotel near the central Rynok Square, an amazing world heritage
area with the 19th C City Hall tower and Renaissance and Italianate
townhouses arranged in real time before your eyes.

I had a complex agenda: genealogical research, Holocaust era sites
(ghetto, memorial, Janowska camp, Golden Rose Synagogue memorial),
and a general historical tour of the city, general region and targeted
towns, to the west and east of Lviv, including ancient Castle Hill, above
the city.

I was touched by this remaining grand dame of the Hapsburg era. It is
stunningly beautiful, poor (with the elderly poor visible in doorways in
center section near old city wall) selling old cameras, personal items, a
scarf, etc.), as though time stood still....all buildings in center prior to
19th C, with Soviet era monoliths in distance. We went to the outdoor
architectural museum, the oldest brewery in Lviv (400 years old).... and
the memorial area where slain Jews are honored.... the looming
beseeching sculptured figure in the center.... unforgettable and tragic....
in the former confined ghetto area. There has been no renovation, no
improvements.... this is raw history. The open market built on top of the
Jewish Cemetery is haunting and unbelievable. The Rappaport Jewish
Hospital survives as the current maternity hospital with Magen David
designs in the wrought iron of the gates. The old Temple intellectuals
synagogue.... destroyed by Nazis, but a plaque shows the spot. The
other spared former synagogue, used for horses and hay, by the Nazis,
(Sholem Aleichem plaque) remains there in an old former Jewish
neighborhood, but no museum nor renovation. We visited the
contemporary Chabad synagogue and chatted with the staff,
contributing a bit. The members may be immigrants to Lviv such as
former Jewish Soviets.

The elegant coffee houses.... coffee is king in Lviv.... we went during the
amazing Coffee Festival in late September.... are wonderful. The high
end and emigree spots, bakery Svit Kavy, restaurants such as Amadeus,
were amazing.... down to the amuse bouche! Check out the art museum,
historical museum in Rynok and walk the streets.... Boim Chapel,
beautiful old Armenian Church.... ancient sidewalks, Opera House, city
arsenal ancient wall.... Being there and finding the exact villages my
family came from, plus smaller memorials, the cemetery in Busk.... intact
ancient Jewish graves the old 2-sided old synagogue (now a type of poor
housing on one side and evangelical church on the other).... broke my
heart.... my forebears prayed there.... and a mass grave found by Father
Patrick Desbois and the Yahad-In Unum research team.... site in the old
Jewish Cemetery on the hill. The memorial in Horodok ( former Grodek)
was touching because there were Holocaust mass grave stones lined up
with some plaque about Russian soldiers, and neighbors who knew
nothing about where this was. A glimpse into the past.... since Ukraine,
so poor and clearly still recovering >from its 19th- 20th C destruction,
dislocation and horrors.

I had research >from JRI Poland, Gesher Galicia, and a few documents my
guide found.... all of this together was a trip back in time.... sad,
connective, awesome, illuminating for you.... your mother and your
children. I didn't have direct contact with Archives.... but I did find my
past and made sense if my gr grandparents and grandmother's formative
experiences in the old world.... finding a piece of myself.... and profoundly
moved.... remembering each detail of that week to spontaneously share
with you.


Sherri Venezia
Davis, Ca

Researching Rottenberg, Kurz families

Daniel Horowitz <> wrote:

I am planning a trip to Lvov (Lviv) next April 2020 for the first time,
and would like to hear any suggestions and comments about the

I have some addresses >from ancestors that lived in the area, but I
also would like to visit the archive to do some research, go to the
cemetery looking for records or burials, visit synagogues and
Jewish areas (if they are) and of course do a bit of regular tourism
with my wife, mom and 2 kids (17 & 11).

Any suggestions, comments or tips would be appreciated. If you
have recommendations of locals that can help, much better.

Feel free to answer me directly.

Best regards

Daniel Horowitz

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